Ghent vs. Leuven: Which city should you visit?

Battle of the Belgians

If you can only visit one city in Belgium - it will probably be Brussels. After all, thats where you landed.

Ghent

If you can only visit two cities, there is a good chance you will head to Bruges, or maybe Antwerp.

But, let me make the case for looking beyond the obvious. I am a big fan of less obvious cities and towns. Less touristy, but maybe no less interesting for the tourists that do turn up. One of the advantages of being a professor is that I often have a good work reason to visit universities in these cities. So, I recently took advantage of a conference at Leuven to visit both there and the city of Ghent, about an hour away.

So which is better? As in my previous city comparisons, I took an entirely scientific approach and not, as some would have it, a series subjective assessments on essentially random criteria.

Best vibes: Ghent

The cities have a lot in common, including medieval streets and buildings. They are a pleasure to walk around. As with many European cities, they have found ways to actively discourage cars from coming into the center of the city, returning the streets to pedestrians and bikers, a change that benefits both tourists and locals.

Historically, Ghent is more important. In the 13th century, it was the second largest city in Europe after Paris. It has had periods of ups and downs, but its prominence is reflected in architecture and impressive medieval churches, seemingly every few blocks, each neighborhood seeking to outdo the other.

Ghent has a livelier culinary scene, especially for vegetarian food, and just has a slightly cooler vibe and more selfie opportunities.

Best town hall: Leuven

The stunning town hall anchors Leuven. Construction started in around 1440, and it survived the wasting of much of the other parts of the city during the World Wars. (It helped that it served as German military HQ during WWI).

Best Nazi bashing: Leuven

Now that Nazi bashing is increasingly frowned-upon in the United States, you may have to travel abroad enjoy such pleasures. Travel through much of Europe, and there is no shortage of opportunities. Leuven’s library gives you a twofer, since it was burned down twice. During World War I, the Germans torched the historic building, Before-and-after images became international propaganda about German barbarism.

During World War II, its less clear if it was the Nazis, or the retreating Brits, that torched it. The library was rebuilt after WWI with a good deal of American help, reflected in the names of various US universities inscribed on the walls, and flattering images of Herbert Hoover throughout the library. If you can visit the bell tower, it offers a fantastic view of the city.

Best Stolen Art Tales: Ghent

There is no shortage of of Nazi-bashing in Ghent either. You can enjoy some as part of the story of the Ghent Altarpiece at St Bavo's Cathedral. Nazis were one of different groups that threatened or stole the panting since its creation in the 1400s. In fact, the painting serves as the MacGuffin in the uneven but largely enjoyable movie, Monuments Men, based on the true story of how of a group of art experts were commissioned by the US military to track down stolen Nazi art during World War II. Take the time to see the Altarpiece and learn the underlying story via a detailed tour also gives you a history of Ghent.

Best bars: tie

Good options for beer in Leuven include De Blauwe Kater (above), Cafe Commerce, and De Metafoor. In Ghent, the former brothel, Water­huis aan de Bier­kant (below) is a consensus pick for a good spot on the water with a vast array of beers, including their own offerings.

Anyway, here is some Belgian beer porn.

If you get tired of the beers, Ghent’s The Cobbler offers a fancy cocktail bar in the 1898 Post hotel, which occupies the resplendent old post office (below). Overlooking the river, it would be top of my list if I return to stay.

Winner: Tie

Yes, this is a cop-out. And here, let me admit my biases. I’ve been to Leuven multiple times, from when I was a PhD student, and it represents my Platonic ideal of what a European college town should be like. So I am biased. If you only had a day and had to choose, my guess is that most folks would prefer Ghent, whose centuries of prosperity gives it a richer array of beautiful spaces. But really, you can’t go wrong. Belgium may not have scenes of natural panoramic wonder relative to much of the rest of Europe. But just spending a week or two hopping between its historic cities seems like a fine choice. If you are familiar with either place, please add your recommendations in the comments!

…and now: this

On a completely different topic, John Oliver’s Last Week Tonight does the best policy explainers. His writing team makes complex topics accessible, while still retaining nuance. And, the reason we watch them, which is that they are funny. See, for example, his work on the student loan system. His recent piece on administrative burdens in Medicaid is another masterclass. It quickly explains the program, Medicaid unwinding, burdens like work requirements, and how burdens are driven by misplaced perceptions of fraud. Well worth your time. Hat tip to Pam Herd, who was one of the researchers who briefed the producers.